The annual White House correspondents’ dinner in Washington is ostensibly about the dinner poking fun at the president. But like the Oscars, or the Met Gala, it’s also about the parties.
But how to decide which parties to attend and which ones to skip? Every day of the White House correspondents’ dinner weekend is now inundated with competing events.
The conversations and the people, for the most part, are fun, until it inevitably gets boring. And then the most interesting thing about the parties becomes the food.
Like stock tips, past performance is not an indicator of future performance. But it could be – so here are the Guardian’s top five parties of 2024, in terms of food:
1. Politico Sunday brunch (Sunday 28 April)
The party: Hosted at the Allbritton residence in Georgetown by Politico and the Allbritton Journalism Institute. Essentially the detox brunch the morning after the White House correspondents’ dinner. This year was Swiss-themed with a large wooden-frame pavilion in the huge back garden, with various food stations dotted around the perimeter. Heidi would have felt at home, walking past two Alphorn players in the front, a toy cable car contraption against a giant wall with a painting of the Matterhorn behind the bar, and flags of various Swiss cantons on each pillar. But it was very warm, and the two St Bernard dogs wearing Politico-branded scarves seemed to be slightly overheating.
The food: Towards the side there was a pastry station, absolutely stacked with viennoiserie. Your reviewer sampled the marmalade buns, which were fluffy on the top and firm in the middle, on which the jam sat. Seemed to be freshly baked. Perfect breakfast food. Your reviewer also sampled the relatively mini-waffles, adding the optional caviar and smoked salmon toppings. After the pastries, that triple-decker was divine: the sweetness of the waffle, balanced by the savory caviar and salmon. Pretty much a perfect pairing. There was also a coffee station, raclette station and a Läderach chocolate station that were all sampled but not reviewed.
Score: Marmalade buns scored 9/10. Mini-waffles scored 9/10 (a highlight of the weekend). Total: 18/20
2. Semafor house party (Friday 26 April)
The party: Hosted at the Kalorama home of the Semafor co-founder Justin Smith. In addition to the ground-floor spaces in the house and the patio, Semafor constructed a platform next to the mini-pool with a bar area, complete with a step-and-repeat wall with obligatory Semafor logos. Semafor’s DC parties have always been well executed and well catered. On this occasion, two chefs slaved away in Smith’s objectively beautiful kitchen, laying out the food on the kitchen island. Smith’s house also just works as a venue because it is large enough that it could probably fit a hundred people comfortably but also breezily intimate. It all added up to an easy ambience that made the party, well, pleasant.
The food: Your reviewer first tried the jerk pork skewers with a sweet mustard dip sauce on the side. The pork was charred on the outside – having just been fired on the grill – and perfectly soft on the inside. It was slightly spicy but it was balanced out if dipped in the sauce. Your reviewer also sampled one of the Bajan ham and cheese sandwiches. These were small finger-food sandwiches with puffy slider buns for the bread. The honey topped off the Bajan-pepper mustard layered between the ham and white cheddar.
Score: Pork skewers were 8/10 (spicier than advertised). Finger sandwiches were 8/10 (could have been more imaginative). Total: 16/20
3. Politico-British embassy reception (Thursday 25 April)
The party: Hosted at the British ambassador’s residence, by the British ambassador, Dame Karen Pierce, and the Politico CEO, Goli Sheikholeslami. One of the busier and consequently noisier events of the weekend. The reception was on-brand: British foods, British drinks and, for the first time, free cigars. Winston Churchill would have approved of the cigars and, presumably, the deputy head of mission, James Roscoe, gliding through the hundreds of people there with the most elegant sherry glass. Politico got its branding on the cocktail napkins and projected a big logo on to the side of the redbrick building.
The food: Your reviewer was on the hunt for dinner-esque foods seeing as the reception started at about 7pm – and found the half-sized fish and chips station in the main hall with the columns. Your reviewer has tried many fish and chips over the years. These were some of the best your reviewer has tried, even if they were slightly over-salted. Each fish was about the size of a hand, and came in little baskets that also contained a handful of fries. Your reviewer also sampled the sliders in the next room over, which were not quite as great as the fish and chips. The beef was slightly overcooked and the buns were slightly firm.
Score: Fish and chips scored 8/10 (pretty salty). Sliders were 7/10 (could have been better). Total: 15/20.
4. NBC-French ambassador’s residence after party (Saturday, 27 April)
The party: Hosted at the residence of the French ambassador, Laurent Bili, by NBC Universal. In the way that the British embassy does quintessentially British food, the French embassy naturally does very French foods. After parties can be hard to cater because guests have already eaten at the White House correspondents’ dinner. Mainly offering desserts in literal bite-size portions, carried around on white platters by servers in white jackets was a smart move and appropriately elegant for the grandeur of the residence. The gothic-exterior house, protected by heavy security from NBC, opens up inside to several interconnected rooms and a large back garden space covered by a marquee. The dimly lit, wood-panelled rooms are decorated with 18th-century oil portraits, presumably of French aristocrats, which gave the space a cosy European atmosphere when guests got tired of the brightly lit rooms off to the side with either a Paris 2024 Olympics theme or a Saturday Night Live theme.
The food: Your reviewer first sampled what appeared to be red-wine flambéed pear tarts. The tarts were literally bite-size, they fit into your palm. It was unclear whether they were actually flambéed, but the tarts were warm and it tasted like lightly burned sugar on the top. The tiny pieces of pear, though, were oversaturated with wine. Swallowing more than a few and your reviewer would have failed a field sobriety test. It was slightly too strong. Your reviewer next tried the bite-size chocolate eclairs. The choux pastry was firm and the filling was well executed. Those were good desserts.
Score: Pear tarts scored 6/10 (swimming in wine was a bit much). Chocolate eclairs scored 8/10 (nothing special but well done). Total: 14/20
5. AAJA Saturday brunch (Saturday, 27 April)
The party: The Asian American Journalists’ Association hosts a brunch on the Saturday, which this year was held on the roof of the Hall of the States building where NBC, MSNBC, C-Span and Fox News have their studios. It’s the sleeper brunch of the weekend that starts a couple of hours after Tammy Haddad’s much more well-known garden brunch over at Beall-Washington House gets going. AAJA’s mission is championing Asian American and minority figures in Washington political reporting, but the speeches can take a long time – after which your reviewer was hungry. Fortunately, AAJA always seems to find remarkably creative and appropriately Asian caterers.
The food: On a rooftop with no formal cooking facilities, AAJA’s caterers magicked up dumplings with either a vegetable filling, a garlic shrimp filling, or a pork and kimchi filling. Your reviewer sampled the garlic shrimp, which was crispy in all the right places and soft on the underside. The garlic was more of an undertone and yet, it was sufficient enough to balance out the saltiness of shrimp. (Shrimp and garlic butter of course is a classic pairing.) As far as savory breakfasts foods go, it was delicious. Your reviewer also tried the cold glass noodles, which were fine but bland. The noodle plate was disappointing.
Score: Shrimp dumplings scored 8/10. Glass noodles were a 5/10 (could have been missed). Total: 13/20.
The rules were as follows: two food options were chosen at random at each party, and given a score out of 10 based on taste and execution. The parties reviewed were cocktail parties only; sit-down dinners were not included. Where the primary reviewer could not attend, a secondary reviewer sent notes. The final list was submitted to a three-judge “appeals panel” made up of longtime MSNBC contributors, though the ranking could only be overturned in the event of plain error by the reviewer. The rankings were not overturned.
Events not reviewed: Washington Women in Journalism awards ceremony, White House Foreign Press-Meridien party, WME-Puck party, Washingtonian/embassy of Qatar soiree, Politics and Inclusion dinner, Washington AI Network-TGI Friday lunch, Substack New Media party.
Source: US Politics - theguardian.com
