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    Barbara Lynch Will Close All Her Restaurants

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    She helped put her city on the modern culinary map, but many employees said they paid a price in workplace abuse.Barbara Lynch, the celebrated chef who helped kick-start Boston’s modern fine-dining scene, announced Wednesday that her remaining restaurants were closing, ending a starry 30-year run that was shadowed in recent years by accusations of toxic working conditions in her kitchens.Her flagship, No. 9 Park, popular among the city’s political class since it opened in 1998 on Beacon Hill, will close at the end of the year, according to a statement first reported by Eater Boston. Ms. Lynch also announced on Instagram that the Rudder, a storied seafood spot that she took over and reopened last year in Gloucester, on the North Shore, had already closed. Her company, the Barbara Lynch Collective, did not immediately respond to an email seeking details about the closing of B & G Oysters, in the South End of Boston.In a report last year in The New York Times, more than 20 former and current staff members described a variety of abuse Ms. Lynch had inflicted on employees, including verbal attacks, inappropriate propositions, and touching, shoving and hitting. She denied the allegations, saying they were “fantastical” and “seemed designed to bring me down.”In January, she closed her white-tablecloth restaurant Menton, along with Sportello and Drink, all in the same building in the city’s Fort Point neighborhood, blaming an “uncooperative landlord.” She sold the Butcher Shop and Stir, the South End spots where the chef Kristen Kish began her run from “Top Chef” winner in 2012 to the show’s current host.In her statement on Wednesday, Ms. Lynch attributed the final closings to “the harsh realities of the global pandemic” and other “difficulties.” Last week, her company was sued for outstanding debt by its linen supplier; a 2023 class-action lawsuit by former employees over tips withheld during the pandemic is scheduled to be heard in November.The closings mark the end of a prominent culinary career for Ms. Lynch, whose roles as a Boston native, an early leader among women chefs, and a survivor of childhood neglect and rape won her national attention. She has described physical abuse in the kitchen by her first high-profile boss, the chef Todd English, and campaigned against such practices. But among the hundreds of alumni of Ms. Lynch’s kitchens, her short temper and drinking problem became an open secret, especially after she was arrested and charged with driving while intoxicated in 2017.That same year, when her memoir was published, she led seven restaurants and was on Time magazine’s list of the 100 most influential Americans. She trained many young chefs, including Ms. Kish, Stephanie Cmar, Colin Lynch and Jason Bond.Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice. More

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      Cristeta Comerford, White House Chef to 5 Presidents, Retires

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      Ms. Comerford, known as “Cheffie” and the first woman and person of color to serve as White House executive chef, reflects on three decades of feeding first families.Growing up in the Philippines, Cristeta Comerford helped her mother, a seamstress, cook for a household of more than a dozen. They were simple meals: rice, a vegetable and fish or chicken, sometimes with extra potatoes to stretch the meal.She never considered that nourishing people, and doing a lot with a little, could be a job. But her father did.“He was like, ‘Cris! You should go to Cordon Bleu and be a chef,” Ms. Comerford, who goes by Cris or “Cheffie,” said in an interview on Thursday. She never did go to culinary school, but she became the first woman and person of color to serve as White House executive chef.Ms. Comerford, 61, retired last week, having cooked for five presidents and their families, charted out more than 50 state dinners, and overseen a renovation of the White House kitchen that was built more than a century ago. But she has not forgotten what first stirred her about cooking.“You see the public life, but at the end of the day the people that we serve are just people like us who want nourishment and good food,” Ms. Comerford said.Jill Biden, the first lady, praised the chef’s commitment to the first family in a statement announcing her retirement.We are having trouble retrieving the article content.Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings.Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times.Thank you for your patience while we verify access.Already a subscriber? Log in.Want all of The Times? Subscribe. More

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      2024 James Beard Award Winners

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      Restaurants and chefs from Washington, D.C., Portland, Ore., and New Orleans took home top honors.The James Beard Foundation handed out its coveted culinary awards Monday evening in Chicago, showcasing an eclectic collection of winners from a range of restaurants in cities and towns across America.Michael Rafidi, of the Arab-influenced Albi in Washington, D.C., was named outstanding chef. He dedicated his award “to Palestine and to all the Palestinian people out there, whether it’s here or in Palestine or all over the world.”The 24-seat Thai tasting menu restaurant Langbaan in Portland, Ore., won the outstanding restaurant award. The team from Dakar NOLA in New Orleans, which offers a Senegalese tasting menu, received best new restaurant. The award for outstanding restaurateur went to Erika and Kelly Whitaker, who run a restaurant group in the Denver area. Chicago’s own Lula Cafe won for outstanding hospitality.In recent years, the awards, which were first given out in 1991, have evolved into a glamorous night of red carpet moments and food-focused partying funded largely by a roster of big-name sponsors.According to the Beard award organizers, the ceremony sold out for the first time in eight years with several nominees opting to bring their entire staffs to the event.The popularity of this year’s event suggests that the organization may have weathered conflicts both internal and external, which exploded in 2020 when the foundation canceled the awards at the last minute after critics said the slate of nominees was not diverse enough and contained chefs who had been accused of abuse.We are having trouble retrieving the article content.Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings.Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times.Thank you for your patience while we verify access.Already a subscriber? Log in.Want all of The Times? Subscribe. More

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      Gramercy Tavern Chef in Charge of Food at the Reopened Waldorf Astoria

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      When the hotel reopens later this year, Michael Anthony will serve as culinary consultant and create an as-yet-unnamed American brasserie.When the Waldorf Astoria hotel, which has anchored Park Avenue in Midtown since 1931, reopens later this year, Michael Anthony will be the new culinary consultant in charge. Mr. Anthony, 56, has been at Gramercy Tavern since 2006, and will remain as executive chef and partner there.“I will not reduce my commitment to Gramercy,” he said. “Everyone supported me in this project”With his second toque at the Waldorf, his main responsibility will be to create an as-yet-unnamed American brasserie in the two-story space that was Oscar’s Brasserie. That new restaurant, also to open later this year, will have an entrance on Lexington Avenue and 50th Street as well as access from the hotel lobby. Its focus will be seasonal contemporary American fare that also reflects Mr. Anthony’s time working in France. The space is being designed by AvroKO Design, with a spacious bar on the ground floor and a white tablecloth dining room upstairs, reached by a grand staircase.The Waldorf Astoria, named for two hotels on Fifth Avenue that were demolished in 1929 to make way for the Empire State Building, has been closed for renovations since 2017. It is now owned by Daija Insurance Group, based in Beijing, and is managed by Hilton Worldwide. Its Art Deco exterior and some of the interior public spaces are designated as landmarks. The Peacock Alley restaurant in the hotel lobby will become a high-end cocktail lounge; the Bull and Bear Steakhouse will not return, and the space will not be used as a restaurant. Mr. Anthony said that he had no information about the famous Starlight Roof, and that his responsibilities at the hotel did not include room service or banqueting.Working with the hotel will occupy much of his time until the new restaurant opens and for at least three months after. At Gramercy Tavern, Mr. Anthony said, he will rely on Aretah Ettarh, the chef de cuisine, who has been at the restaurant for seven years. “At the Waldorf I plan to build on my roots and what I’ve established at Gramercy to create something distinctive,” Mr. Anthony said. More

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      Lola’s Offers a Southern Spin on Filipino Cooking

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      Alaluna offers dry-aged fish with an Italian approach, Bon Bon serves up Swedish hot dogs and more restaurant news.OpeningLola’sThe chef Suzanne Cupps is honoring her lola (grandmother in Filipino) Annunciasion Rocamora Paraiso with this new restaurant that pays tribute to her courage during World War II. The menu reflects Ms. Cupp’s experiences growing up in Aiken, S.C., and working in New York with the chefs Anita Lo and Michael Anthony. Expect seasonal dishes like Southern stuffed clams, fried tilefish lettuce wraps with kohlrabi slaw, country rib skewers, and stir-fried egg noodles with early spring greens and silk chile crisp. The beverage director, Adrienne Vanni, has sought value on the wine list, with many options under $100 and several nonalcoholic choices. There is a bar up front and tables at green banquettes that follow back to the emerald tile open kitchen with a terrazzo counter where the chef will be at work. (Opens Thursday)2 West 28th Street, 646-941-4787, lolasnyc.com. AlalunaThe downtown group of Italian shopping and eating areas called Travelers Poets and Friends is now complete with the addition of this intimate spot for seafood by the executive chef and partner Riccardo Orfino. The emphasis is on dry-aged fish. Exposing fish to air, a Japanese technique that’s gaining ground, reduces moisture to the benefit of fat and succulence. Mr. Orfino takes it to Italy with a cured fish plate, aged bonito tartare and smoked yellowtail agnolotti. The restaurant is next to the all-day bistro in the space.467 Avenue of the Americas (11th Street), 212-420-0057, travelerspoetsandfriends.com. Mala Hot PotThis is not the first Chinese restaurant named málà, meaning numbing and spicy, as known best in Sichuan food. The partner Kevin Chen, formerly of Tang Hotpot, and the chef Yi Bin Yang, from Sichuan, offer a raft of ingredients including prime and Wagyu beef, assorted vegetables and innards like tripe, duck blood and pork artery to simmer in broth. The setting is industrial.35 West 36th Street, 646-582-4049, malahotpotnyc.com. The MouthBrooklyn Art Haus in Williamsburg now has its own restaurant next door. The kitchen is run by the chefs Naama Tamir and her brother, Assaf Tamir, who own Lighthouse Restaurant nearby. The menu, which emphasizes sustainability, is mainly Middle Eastern and will expand to cover more of the Mediterranean. (Saturday)20 Marcy Avenue (Metropolitan Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 929-397-0000, themouthbk.com. Dinner at Shlomo’sThis supper club, tucked inside Comodo restaurant and named for the “Law Office of Shlomo and Shlomo” found on a door in the restaurant’s cellar, will offer chef’s dinners, $150. From Thursday through Saturday the chef will be Elly Fraser, who had a restaurant, Elly’s, in Mexico City and is now cooking in New York. From April 18 to 20, the chef will be Carolina Santos-Neves of Comodo. (Thursday)Freehand New York, 23 Lexington Avenue (23rd Street), 212-475-1924, dinner@shlomos.net. Universal TacoFranklin Becker has changed the name and concept of what was Oliva Tapas in the food hall on Columbia University’s uptown campus. It now takes a global approach to tacos with fillings like Jamaican braised oxtail and lamb gyro along with traditional choices like al pastor. (April 9)3229 Broadway (130th Street), manhattanvillemarket.com/universaltaco. We are having trouble retrieving the article content.Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings.Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times.Thank you for your patience while we verify access.Already a subscriber? Log in.Want all of The Times? Subscribe. More

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      Former Horses Chef Opens Frog Club in New York

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      Liz Johnson has taken over the former Chumley’s space after her messy split with her former co-chef, Will Aghajanian.As would-be diners approached a nondescript door on a placid block in Greenwich Village on Wednesday night, they were stopped short by a tall, lean man wearing a black fur hat and red carnation boutonniere. He pressed stickers over the lenses of their phones. No photography was allowed, he insisted.As they complied and disappeared through the door, the block fell silent again.Inside, silence was scarce. It was the opening night of Frog Club, the first restaurant involving the chef Liz Johnson since the very public implosion of her marriage to Will Aghajanian, with whom she ran the acclaimed Los Angeles restaurant Horses.Occupying the historic space formerly home to Chumley’s, Frog Club has been veiled in secrecy. Only a 12-minute stiltedly lo-fi YouTube video announced its official opening, and a sparse website offered just an email address for requesting reservations. With Ms. Johnson and Mr. Aghajanian in the middle of a contentious divorce, it’s even unclear who owns the restaurant.Aside from a somewhat cryptic YouTube video, Ms. Johnson, pictured here at Mimi in 2016, has been mostly quiet about the opening of Frog Club.Krista Schlueter for The New York TimesMr. Aghajanian, 32, told The New York Times, in an Instagram direct message, that the project is “in legal limbo currently,” and that “Frog club is a concept I created and designed.”Asked Wednesday how she felt about the restaurant, Ms. Johnson, 33, surveyed the space and said simply, “It’s all mine.”We are having trouble retrieving the article content.Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings.Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times.Thank you for your patience while we verify access.Already a subscriber? Log in.Want all of The Times? Subscribe. More