Washington DC

It was an audience more accustomed to stifling a cough or resisting the temptation to unwrap a sweet. But when they spotted vice-president JD Vance taking his seat at the John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts in Washington on Thursday night, classical music-goers erupted in unrestrained boos, jeers and shouts of “You ruined this place!”The noisy protest exemplified a culture clash taking place in the nation’s capital. It came in the same week that work began to remove a giant “Black Lives Matter” mural near the White House, a top political columnist quit the Washington Post newspaper and a spending bill passed by the House of Representatives sought to impose drastic budget cuts of $1.1bn on the District of Columbia (DC).Compounding it all, with Elon Musk’s so-called “department of government efficiency” (Doge) slashing the federal workforce, some residents fear that Washington could go the way of Detroit half a century ago: a city that loses its principal industry and goes into a downward spiral.“Everybody feels the atmosphere is toxic here and you can’t get away from it,” said Sally Quinn, an author, journalist and socialite. “People are so distraught and so down and in despair. The question is, what can we do? That’s what people are asking in Washington. The biggest feeling of all is impotence: they can’t stop it.”Trump has always been an anachronistic presence in DC, where the Republican lost last year’s presidential election to Democratic opponent Kamala Harris by 86 percentage points. During his first term, he only ventured out to one restaurant in the city – his own – and never attended the annual Kennedy Center Honors or White House Correspondents’ Association dinner.But as in other arenas, Trump’s second term is more direct, determined and intentional, and includes the cultural equivalent of precision air strikes against the mostly liberal residents of Washington.View image in fullscreenOn Monday crews started work to remove a giant yellow “Black Lives Matter” slogan painted on a street one block from the White House. DC mayor Muriel Bowser, a Democrat, had ordered the painting and renamed the intersection Black Lives Matter Plaza in June 2020 following the murder of George Floyd by a Minneapolis police officer.Its erasure five years later amounts to a public acknowledgement of how vulnerable DC is now that Trump is back in the White House and Republicans control both houses of Congress. The work is expected to take about six weeks and the words will be replaced by an unspecified set of city-sponsored murals.Among those who gathered to witness the work on Monday was Megan Bailiff, chief executive of Equus Striping, the pavement marking company that originally painted the letters. She told the Associated Press its presence was “more significant at this very moment than it ever has been in this country” and described its its removal as “historically obscene”.Trump has seized control of the Kennedy Center, the crown jewel of the city’s performing arts scene, installing himself as chair and loyalist Ric Grenell as president. Numerous artists and producers have cancelled shows, including Lin-Manuel Miranda’s hit musical Hamilton, while ticket sales reportedly dropped roughly 50% week-over-week after Trump announced his takeover.The backlash against Vance at this week’s National Symphony Orchestra concert was a palpable demonstration of the anger. Coming just weeks after the vice-president publicly berated Ukraine’s Volodymyr Zelenskyy in the Oval Office, some could not help but note the irony that he was attending all-Russian programme that included Stravinsky’s Petrushka, the story of three puppets brought to life by a charlatan.The booing incident prompted a retort from Grenell, who wrote on the X social media platform: “It troubles me to see that so many in the audience appear to be white and intolerant of diverse political views. Diversity is our strength.” Meanwhile this week Trump added Fox News host Laura Ingraham and Fox Business anchor Maria Bartiromo to the Kennedy Center’s board.Quinn observed: “They’re being very imaginative in their atrocities. They trashed the Kennedy Center and threw everybody out and put Laura Ingraham on the board. The Kennedy Center has been so much a part of the city for so long and suddenly it’s gone. They’ve lost in the first couple of weeks 50% of their ticket sales. They’re not getting the donations they used to get. All kinds of acts are cancelling and people I know say they won’t ever set foot in that place.”View image in fullscreenThe Trump International hotel on Pennsylvania Avenue is no more but the Maga (Make America great again) movement is gaining a foothold in other parts of the city. Butterworth’s, a bistro on Capitol Hill, has drawn Trump allies including Musk and Kash Patel and has been dubbed “Steve Bannon’s restaurant”.Bannon, who lives nearby but has no formal connection to Butterworth’s, said in a text message it reminds him of one of his favourite areas in London. “It’s Mayfair come to Capitol Hill,” he explained.Co-owner Raheem Kassam, a former editor-in-chief of Breitbart News UK and ex-aide to British rightwing populist Nigel Farage, insisted in an online message: “We are a Capitol Hill restaurant that welcomes everyone and refuses to discriminate based on politics. Our investors come from a range of backgrounds, and includes left-liberals, apolitical-types, LGBT+ people, and minorities.“But frankly, we’re not really interested in ticking boxes. We’re interested in great food and good vibes. If you fancy that, we’re the place for you, no matter who you are. Just please, no hats for dinner service.”Washington has often had a tenuous peace with the federal government when Republicans controlled Congress and the White House. It is now facing its most urgent threat since it was given the power of home rule during the Richard Nixon administration.This week the House passed a continuing resolution to fund the federal government that includes a provision treating DC as a federal agency for budget purposes. This would force DC to revert to its fiscal year 2024 spending levels, resulting in an estimated $1.1bn cut to its current 2025 budget over the remaining six months.The funds are locally raised taxpayer dollars, not federal subsidies. City officials warned of “calamitous reduction in services ranging from schools to public safety”. Washington could face potential hiring freezes, layoffs across various agencies, renegotiation or termination of leases and decreased security and janitorial services.Paul Strauss, shadow US senator for DC, said: “I’m shocked that it’s now House Republicans that are taking steps to defund the police, which was normally a position staked out by extreme members of the far left. To have the House vote to cut the police budget so substantially seems difficult to understand.”After final passage of the continuing resolution, the Senate unanimously passed a bill by voice vote to restore the $1.1bn in spending cuts to the DC government. The DC bill, which Trump supports, must still be approved by the House when it returns on 24 March.Democrats and DC officials view the proposed budget cuts as politically motivated, potentially aimed at undermining the self-governance of the predominantly Democratic city. Trump has previously suggested that DC would be better off under total federal control.View image in fullscreenSuch is the concern that Jamie Raskin, a Democratic congressman from Maryland, even floated the idea that Washington could be temporarily incorporated into Maryland. Raskin said on the City Cast DC podcast: “If you guys want to think about coming back to Maryland for this period, you would definitely be safer in the free state than you’d be under the brutal thumb of Maga colonialism.”Simultaneously, Washington is facing economic headwinds due to deep federal job cuts orchestrated by Doge under the Trump administration. Unemployment claims recently rose 25% in one week and are four times as high as one year earlier. Glen Lee, the district’s chief financial officer, has forecast that DC could lose 40,000 federal jobs – down by a fifth – and projected a loss of revenue of $1bn over the next three years.Bill Galston, a chair in governance studies at the Brookings Institution thinktank, noted that the federal government is a vast establishment with 2.3 million workers spread across the country, of whom 80% are not in Washington. “So I don’t think that life in Washington DC has been upended yet,” he said.“What there has been and of course is is a pell-mell replacement of a sense of security with a pretty near total sense of insecurity. The sense of what might happen to an individual is a larger effect than the actual firings. People are hunkering down.”The shift in Trump’s second term has been more dramatic than anyone expected, added Galston, a resident of 43 years. “There’s an element of incredulity. People who tried to imagine in the starkest possible detail what could happen almost universally concede that, while they have let their imaginations run riot, they feel they didn’t go far enough.“There is something slightly surreal about all of this, but I wake up in the morning and I walk down the driveway in a very old fashioned way for my three newspapers and I open up the package and it’s very real.”As Doge downsizes the government, the Trump administration has considered offloading numerous federal properties, raising concerns about vacant buildings and a decline similar to that of Detroit after the car manufacturing industry was gutted. An essay in the New York Times newspaper this week was headlined: “DC Is Becoming Another Hollowed-Out Company Town.”View image in fullscreenQuinn said: “It is a one industry town, and basically what they’re doing is destroying the government, which is what Trump said he would do. Even Trump supporters are stunned. I know from some of my friends on the Hill that Republican senators and congressmen are freaking out, too, because they’re hearing from their constituents.”Quinn was married to the late Ben Bradlee, who was editor of the Washington Post when it reported on the Watergate scandal, which forced Nixon’s resignation. Long a vital part of the fabric of the city, the storied newspaper has been in freefall, financially and editorially, over the past year.Billionaire owner Jeff Bezos, who donated to and attended Trump’s inauguration, recently ordered that the paper narrow the topics covered by its opinion section to personal liberties and the free market. Opinions editor David Shipley resigned because of the shift. This week Ruth Marcus, who had worked at the Post since 1984, also quit. Several star reporters have left in recent months.David Maraniss, a former associate editor of the Post who recently resigned after 48 years at the paper, said: “What’s happening at the Post is connected to Trump and that’s very disturbing to me. I don’t think Bezos genuflecting to an autocrat is something I want to have any part of. I consider the Post a public trust almost. That sounds sort of idealistic and naive but it’s larger than an owner; it’s an identity.“What it represents in terms of journalistic ethics and integrity has been damaged almost beyond repair and this is a time when newspapers of that sort are needed more than ever. For us to recede from that push for freedom of speech, the First Amendment, for the search for truth is depressing to me.”For many of Trump’s critics, Washington feels like a city under occupation. Maraniss added: “It’s the second occupation but it seems more pronounced than the first. My feelings are complicated by a double whammy of what’s happening in my newspaper and in the city, in the country and in the world. It all seems wrapped together. In terms of Washington there’s anxiety, a feeling of a darkness coming over the city and enormous uncertainty about what people should do.” More